Check the flea index to see when the flea season begins in your geographic locat

[responsiblek9]

http://www.nofleas.com/Flea-Index.asp
Check the flea index to see when the flea season begins in your geographic location

[responsiblek9]

may be useful for in home control assistance of fleas.....before they get on you or your critters.

 FLEA TRAP




PRODUCT NAME:   The Flea Trap.

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:   This is an electronic device which
heats up to the range of temperature that fleas are
able to see. They are attracted to it because they
perceive the device as a kitten or a dog lying on
the floor. Once they jump at the trap they will fall
through the grid on the base and get stuck in a
non-toxic glueboard.  The trap costs less than $.05
a month to operate and will attract fleas from up
to 25 feet away.  The glueboard is expected to remain
active for up to three months or replace when filled
with fleas.



TARGET PESTS:   Fleas and flea pupae.

WHERE TO USE IT:   In any part of the home.

RATE OF APPLICATION:    Each trap will cover up to 800
square feet of living area.

some links to look at or just drop flea trap into a google search

http://www.accountwizard.com/clients/shop.asp?web=bugspray&outsidelink=item&value=822742
around 15$

http://www.accountwizard.com/clients/shop.asp?web=bugspray&outsidelink=item&value=822744
replacement stick  pads



SpringStar FLEA TRAP
http://www.biconet.com/pets/fleaTrap.html

PP4161    The Flea Trap (1.2#)                          $14.95
PP4162    Replacement Pads, 3/pkg (.1#)                  $6.50
PP4162.12 Replacement Pads, 3/pkg, 12/cs (36 pads) (1#) $65.00

[responsiblek9]

Flea Traps

Flea population explosions tend to occur when their food sources are on vacation. How often have you and your pet come home from a relaxing trip only to be assaulted by a horde of ravenous fleas? You might want to try leaving behind a flea trap. Traps can also reduce flea populations when used routinely in rooms where flea populations are high.


To make your own, hang a light bulb six to twelve inches above a pan of soapy water or a sticky trap. The warmth of the bulb will attract fleas, especially if no other warm-blooded animals are around.

Flea traps are also available commercially. Traps with a flickering, yellow-green light source are most effective. They are available under the brand name Ultralight, manufactured by Whitmire Research. (St. Louis, MO.; 800/325- 3668).

[responsiblek9]

Predatory nematodes that prey on flea larvae and pupae as they are developing in soil are available commercially. The nematodes are mixed with water and watered into lawns to reduce outdoor flea populations. Strong reductions in flea populations are possible if temperature and humidity conditions allow the nematodes to thrive. Nematodes are available from Gardens Alive! (812/537-8650) and other garden supply stores.

[responsiblek9]

Flea Repellents

Cedar chips are widely known as a flea-repellent bedding material. However, over time the wood chips lose their odor and the bedding is difficult to vacuum or wash effectively. The bed becomes a safe haven for flea larvae. If you choose to use cedar chip bedding, replace it (or freshen with cedar oil) when the aroma wears off. A removable, washable cover is a good idea.

Fed to your pet, vitamin B1 (found in nutritional yeast) is a flea repellent. However, it should be given only in small doses, 1/2 teaspoon for a small cat and 2 to 3 teaspoons for large dogs, since large amounts can result in gas and cramps. A better source of vitamin B1 for pets is Bcomplex vitamins at a dosage of 1/4 to 1/2 of a 10-milligram pill per day. Chopped garlic cloves added to your pet's food also can repel fleas. One large clove a day is recommended for a large dog

_______________________________________________________

Note _ (not sure about the garlic because of the sulfur issue and toxicity of the onion families to dogs. Remember a clove is a single piece ) What other natural things for bedding have worked that some of you guys have had experience with? Nora & crew

[responsiblek9]

Vacuuming floors, carpets, furniture, crevices and cracks once a week is an excellent means of controlling the flea population. Vacuuming is especially effective at picking adults and eggs. The vibration from vacuuming can result in the emergence of adult fleas from the pupal stage. The newly hatched fleas are vacuumed up prior to ever meeting you or your pet. However, vacuuming is not particularly effective in removing the flea larvae in carpeting. Larvae wrap themselves around the base of carpet fibers, and hang on.17

Vacuum more frequently if the flea population increases, every two or three days during peak season. After vacuuming, the bag must be dealt with immediately or the fleas will escape and reinfest the area. The bag can be thrown away, burned or placed in a sealed black plastic bag in the freezer or in the sun for several days. A water vacuum eliminates the need to deal with the vacuum cleaner bag.

If you have a high level flea infestation, having your carpets professionally steam-cleaned may be worth the investment. Steam-cleaning kills fleas in the adult and larval stages. However, the steam can trigger the hatching of the remaining flea eggs a few days later.

Raising temperatures within a structure can kill the fleas. Isothermics Inc., of Anaheim, California, sells a heating unit that raises the temperature in a structure to the point where it kills fleas and other insects (termites, cockroaches and ants) without damaging the house or its contents. This technology is available only to pest control operators.17

 Another tip I have seen work is salt . Flea larvae dont like salt and often it will kill them. So a home steam cleaner and put a bit of salt into the water when you are soaping the carpet. But do rinse thouroughly or the salt tends to collect moisture. In  the greyhound kennels where I worked  we used to rotor tiller in rock salt into the  gravel runs each spring . None of his greyhound kennel runs  had flea issues. But not sure how that would work on a lawn...

[responsiblek9]

Understanding flea biology key to busting resistance speculation    
http://www.dvmnewsmagazine.com/dvm/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=152652
    
   
   
   
   
   
Mar 1, 2005    
By: Dr. Carlo Vitale    
DVM Newsmagazine    
   
During the past decade, there has been enormous improvements made in flea protection products for use on pet animals and in the environment.

The emergence of the topical adulticides, such as imidocloprid, fipronil and selemectin, has revolutionized flea control in the United States. In addition, the pre-adulticides that include lufenuron, methoprene and pyriproxyfen also have proven effective in flea control. Unfortunately, there has been speculation recently that the common cat flea (Ctenocephalides felis) has demonstrated resistance to some of these chemicals. This is considered to be a misconception among most flea biologists and veterinary dermatologists, and the true "resistance" stems from the lack of knowledge of flea biology, existing resistance to older adulticides and poor compliance (See suggested reading).

Biology revisitedCtenocephalides felis (C. felis) is the common flea found on most domesticated animals. This cat flea is found on cats, dogs, raccoons, opossums, domesticated rabbits, ferrets, cattle, foxes, coyotes, bobcats, koalas and some avian and rodent species. It is also found to infest the mongoose population in Hawaii. They are rarely found on squirrels or wild rabbits. C. felis stays permanently on these hosts, where they feed, breed and eventually die.

They do not survive for extended periods of time off the host, however, survival rates of 12 days or more were reported under moist conditions in homes. In addition, adult fleas may, on occasion, leap onto clothing of humans and be carried away to a new location.

Fleas are obligate parasites and are a permanent parasite on the host until it dies, usually in about 100 days. The average pet has twice as many female fleas as male fleas. The female flea begins feeding on the pet and starts to lay eggs within 24 hours of hatching and can lay up to 40-50 eggs per day.

The eggs are not sticky and fall off the pet into the environment. It has been clearly shown that many eggs do not survive and undergo desiccation in dry environments. However, due to the massive reproductive capabilities of the adult flea, a substantial infestation can still occur in the home as well as the outdoors.

The ova of C. felis begin hatching within a few days after they enter the environment (home and outdoors). The proper conditions for survival include adequate temperature (probably the most important factor) and humidity. The ideal temperature is 40-85 degrees F and humidity above 50 percent. Dry conditions with humidity below 50 percent can be lethal to ova. Ova and larvae simply desiccate when exposed to hot and dry conditions with inadequate moisture.

The surviving eggs hatch into larvae within a few days or weeks. The larvae also undergo several moltings. Larvae survival is also dependent upon similar temperature and humidity values as the ova but also are reliant on a food source: adult flea feces (dried host blood). The larvae enter the pupal stage by spinning a loosely packed silk cocoon. This sticky cocoon often is coated with environmental particles and is much more resistance to extreme environmental conditions and insecticides. Pupae will hatch in 13 days or less under ideal conditions, but may survive for five months or more without an adequate host. The time for pupal development and hatching is termed the pupal window.

The time from deposition of eggs to adult-flea emergence is called the developmental window and can be up to three months in duration. These pre-adults are found in the carpeting fibers, pet bedding, under furniture, cracks in hardwood floors, under sofa cushions, soil, grass, sand and in animal burrows.

When encountering a flea infestation on a pet, especially a pet with symptoms of flea allergy dermatitis, a three-step program is recommended to eliminate or reduce flea bites on the pet.

Initially, the proper application of adulticides, such as fipronil, imidocloprid or selemectin, on all pets is advised. Some of these products demonstrate larvicidal properties. Cats tend to lick the non-dried product after application, so these products are applied to the base of the head in an area that cannot be groomed. Most animals that have adult active fleas on the coat are most likely exposed to an infested environment thus overwhelming the adulticide product.

Frequent shampoo therapy (especially in dogs) with strong soaps or stripping ingredients may remove some of the product as well. It is recommended to apply adulticides on a dry coat and delaying shampoo several days after application.

Treating the homeThe second objective is to apply treatment to the home environment. There are at least two insect growth regulators (methoprene and pyriproxyfen) available on the market in the Unites States, and they are designed to interfere with egg hatchability and larval development. These two stages can comprise more than 50 percent of the pre-adult population.

Most house sprays are water-based and contain an accompanying adulticide, such as permethrin or tetramethrin. The spray should be applied to pet bedding, all carpets, hardwood floors, under furniture, under sofa cushions, closets, carpeted-based cat condominiums, door-mats and carpeted areas in the automobile. These insecticides also demonstrated some ovicidal and larvicidal properties but may not persist in the environment for long periods of time.

It is therefore recommended to treat the home with a second application two weeks later (pupal-window) thus achieving a quick knockdown of newly emerging adult fleas. A third application is also advised three to six months later.

Finally, sodium polyborate powder has been shown to be effective in controlled indoor pre-adult stages. The powder acts as a desiccant and, when ingested by larvae, acts as a toxin.

The third and final treatment focuses on the outdoor environment. This area may not be as important as the home due to the extreme variations in temperature and humidity or to the pet's environment.

If dogs and cats frequent the yard of a home, it is advisable to treat these areas monthly with either malathion or diazinon. Newer and safer products are also available and include biologics, such as a nematode spray. The nematode, Steinernema carpocapsa, preferentially parasitizes flea larvae and other destructive insects, such as cut worms and army worms.

The nematodes are reported to be safe for outdoor use but are effective only in moist-shade and part-shade areas and should be applied every one to three months.

With the knowledge of flea reproduction and the proper use of adulticides and environmental treatments, one can deal swiftly and adequately to control flea infestations and the associated flea allergy in pets.

Consistency with treatment is also critical and will enhance treatment success. Finally, client education is very important, and an adequate flea-control program is not complete without the education of the owner and the monitoring of compliance.

Dr. Vitale received his veterinary degree from Mississippi State University, College of Veterinary Medicine. He completed a residency in veterinary dermatology at the University of California, Davis and is a diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Dermatology. He is a clinical instructor/lecturer at UC-Davis and a staff dermatologist at East Bay Veterinary Specialists (formerly Encina Veterinary Hospital), Bay Area Veterinary Specialists and San Francisco Veterinary Specialists.

[responsiblek9]

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/8218837/

Fighting fleas



How to battle this year's bumper crop
By Kim Campbell Thornton


Months of heavy rain in California, last year?s hurricanes in Florida and along the East Coast, and a mild winter and wetter-than-normal conditions in the West and Midwest all add up to one thing: the likelihood of a record number of fleas this year. Flea season has already started in most of the country, and pet owners in Texas, Florida, Pennsylvania and Northern California are among those reporting problems with the biting beasties.

So what?s the best way to tackle fleas? Happily, constant bathing, dipping, spraying and powdering are things of the past.

The latest generation of topical insecticides, combined with the use of insect growth regulators (IGRs), has made flea control easier and more effective than ever before. But are the topical flea-control products sold in pet supply stores just as effective as or even the same as those available from your veterinarian? They certainly cost less, which can be a draw if you?re a pet owner on a tight budget.

While both types of products are applied to the skin between the shoulder blades, they contain different chemical formulations. "The chemicals used in the over-the-counter spot-on once-a-month formulations are in general less effective ... and don?t have the safety profile that the major commercial spot-on preparations have that are [available from veterinarians]," says Peter J. Ihrke, a veterinary dermatology specialist at the University of California, Davis.

"Over-the-counter spot-on preparations have a chemical called permethrin in them," he says. "Permethrins can be reasonably effective and they?re certainly better than a lot of the products available 10 or 15 years ago ? but many of the permethrins cannot be used on cats. With many of the permethrin products, we?re reluctant to recommend using them on a dog in a household if there?s also a cat living in the same house."

Hartz product phaseout
Ihrke?s point is borne out by the announcement on June 3 by the Environmental Protection Agency (which regulates insecticides) that because of adverse side effects and some reported deaths, the Hartz Mountain Corporation will stop producing Hartz Advanced Care 4 in 1 Flea and Tick Drops Plus for Cats and Kittens, Hartz Advanced Care 3 in 1 Flea and Tick Drops for Cats and Kittens, and Hartz Advanced Care Once-A-Month Flea and Tick Drops for Cats and Kittens.

Florida veterinarian Link V. Welborn says flea-control measures fail for two main reasons: lack of awareness and lack of consistency. "Many people still waste money on less effective and less safe over-the-counter products instead of consulting a veterinarian," he says. "The second problem is a tendency for many pet owners to only use products until the flea problem appears to be under control instead of using them regularly to control and prevent problems." The following tips will help you get a jump on fleas:

? Treat every animal in the household, not just the ones that appear to have fleas.
? Keep cats indoors to reduce their exposure to fleas.
? Vacuum frequently, and wash dog or cat bedding in hot water every week or two.
? In the yard, limit the amount of overgrown vegetation in deep shade ? that?s where fleas can develop.

   
The active ingredient in these products is phenothrin, a synthetic pyrethroid that kills adult fleas and ticks. Pyrethroids, which include pyrethrin and permethrin, are insecticides derived from the extract of a chrysanthemum species. Other over-the-counter products contain different forms of pyrethroids and some contain insect growth regulators, which prevent flea eggs or larvae from developing to maturity. Some may contain phenothrin, but at lower concentrations.

Their overall drawback is reduced effectiveness. After being in use for more than 20 years, the effectiveness of pyrethrins has decreased substantially because fleas have developed resistance to these types of chemicals.

The active ingredients in veterinary topicals ? fipronil, selamectin or imidacloprid ? kill adult fleas when they touch the animal?s skin. "These products are much more effective, safer, easier, and in the long run, more economical than anything we had before," says Link V. Welborn, a veterinarian at North Bay Animal and Bird Hospital in Tampa, Fla.


As yet, resistance doesn?t appear to be a problem with veterinary topicals. "You always worry [about resistance developing]," says Dennis A. Feinberg, a veterinarian at Charles Towne Veterinary Clinic in Charleston, S.C., and immediate past president of the American Animal Hospital Association. "With the time they?ve been on the market now, my experience so far is I haven?t seen a change of losing the efficacy of the product, but as time goes on there?s going to be mutations among fleas and they?re going to have to put some kind of twist on it chemically."

Like over-the-counter spot-ons, spot-ons that are strictly insecticides such as fipronil (Frontline) or imidacloprid (Advantage) are regulated by the EPA and are not prescription products, but their manufacturers have chosen to market them primarily through veterinarians to ensure that their use is properly explained.



"Individualizing flea control by reviewing the lifestyle and environment of the pet with the client is important," says Welborn. For instance, the average dog or cat often does well with having only a spot-on treatment applied every month or so, but severely flea-allergic animals may need a spot-on, plus an insect growth regulator such as lufenuron (Program).

Be aware of side effects
Can veterinary spot-ons have side effects? Any medical product can, no matter what its safety record. Dogs and cats are individuals, and what works well on one can adversely affect another, depending on factors such as age and health.

Ihrke says that in general it?s a good idea to have an assessment of the overall health of an animal before using any medical product. "There certainly can be adverse side effects ... and there are certain oral or injectable prescription medications on the market that have the potential for interacting with some of the topical products, so it?s more of a safety issue," he says.

If you?re concerned that such products could be harmful, Welborn suggests looking at the risk-to-benefit ratio. "Safety should be considered in terms of relative risk. The risk associated with not controlling external parasites and not preventing heartworms [in the case of combination flea control/heartworm products such as Sentinel] is much greater than the risk of any potential side effect with these products," he says.

That?s all well and good unless you?re the owner of the pet having a reaction to a product. To prevent problems, take the following precautions:


Read the label carefully before applying any product to your dog or cat to ensure that it?s appropriate for your pet?s species, age and weight.
If you don?t understand exactly how a product is to be used, ask your veterinarian.
Never apply products meant for dogs to cats, or vice versa.
Make sure that a particular product is safe for use on puppies, kittens, pregnant animals or old animals.
Give oral flea treatments with food to prevent stomach upset.
If your pet shows signs of reacting to a spot-on product, such as acting "drunk" or frantic, redness at the application site or severe itching, bathe him and then take him to the veterinarian to make sure he?s OK.
Never assume that more is better. Too much of any product, especially in cats, can have serious or even fatal consequences.

Kim Campbell Thornton is an award-winning author who has written many articles and more than a dozen books about dogs and cats. She belongs to the Dog Writers Association of America and is past president of the Cat Writers Association. She shares her home in California with three Cavalier King Charles Spaniels and one African ringneck parakeet.

[responsiblek9]

http://www.weather.com/activities/homeandgarden/pets/fleaactivity.html

 
Flea season is greatly influenced by weather conditions such as temperature and humidity. See when fleas are most likely to be active in your area: